The Right Wine is Beer

26 November 2009



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The State Dinner, or Obama Singhs for His Supper

A state dinner is supposed to be the epitome of elegant international diplomacy. It is more an occasion for world leaders to pretend that politics is not merely show business for the ugly. They get to play dress up and socialize with people they hardly know. However, the gossip writers who pass for journalists these days made quite a deal out of Tuesday's dinner with Prime Minister Manmohan Singh of India. The décor, Mrs. Obama's dress and the menu took up more space in the papers than the intricacies of US-Indian relations. In the spirit of the Thanksgiving holiday, this journal will play along, reluctantly.

First off, the guest list exceeded the number who can comfortably dine in the White House. Technically, that isn't true, but it wouldn't do to have some of the invitees sit on folding chairs near the White House basketball court balancing their petits fours on a paper plate on their knees. Very few invitees spent enough time having spaghetti dinners in the fellowship hall of their local Lutheran church to have developed the highly specialized skills needed to execute such dining with anything resembling poise and elegance.

So, the do was held in a big tent on the White House lawn. Under chandeliers, the china came from the Eisenhower, Clinton and Bush II administrations because each had hosted a state dinner for the leaders of India. Fortunately, India is a democracy, and therefore, the leader is different. Consequently, he wouldn't notice that the china wasn't new. This cannot be said of Queen Elizabeth or many of the more odious world dictators who seem to always be in office.

Then, there is the dress Mrs. Obama wore. It took three weeks to make by hand, and during these tough economic times, some conservative critics carped that it was inappropriate. Perhaps that is so. By the same token, had she turned up in blue jeans and a Chicago White Sox T-shirt they would have groused as well. The truth is she has the height to carry off most snazzy, snooty garb, and she's wise enough to know that a woman in her forties who has had two children can't dress the way her daughters might without drawing even more criticism.

Finally, the menu raised an eyebrow or two. It was largely vegan in deference to Mr. Singh's beliefs. It included green curry prawns with collard greens and coconut aged basmati saerved with "2007 Granache, Beckmen Vineyards, Santa Ynez, California." Wine snob and UCLA Law Professor Stephen Bainbridge suggested this was wrong. True, it's spelled "grenache," but he added, that the curry will go badly with the high alcohol red. Worse,

then we add prawns to the mix. Red wine is almost never a good match for shrimp or any other shellfish. True, a bunch of chefs in the nouvelle cuisine tradition insist on trying it, but it almost never works out very well. A high alcohol, high tannins wine with earthy flavors is NOT what I would want to drink with a delicate food like prawns.
The good professor knows wine, but he clearly doesn't know spit about curry -- unlike anyone who tried to find a restaurant open in London after 10 pm in London during the dark days of the Thatcherite junta. Prawns when curried cease to be delicate. They absorb the coriander, ginger, cumin, tumeric and other spices it is true, but these are not hot spices in the Mexican pepper sense of hot. Rather they are warm flavors that stand up well to a red, although a pinot noir is preferable.

That said, both the good professor and the White House sommelier got it wrong. With food from the subcontinent, be it Pakistani, Indian, Bangledeshi, or curries from Thailand and Burma, there is no right wine to serve. The right wine is beer, a lager if one must have something at a low temperature. Belgium's Stella Artois is the best of this variety, but India's Kingfisher or Golden Eagle work. One ought to avoid the thin American stuff, save for Sam Adam's. However, the perfect choice is a pale ale. And while Bass, Theakstons and Ruddles County are all quite good, Sierra Nevada's is the gold standard.

Here endeth the lesson.

© Copyright 2009 by The Kensington Review, Jeff Myhre, PhD, Editor. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written consent. Produced using Fedora Linux.

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